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Surfers spend an inordinate amount of time waiting. Not "doing nothing" as waiting around might be considered. They wait watchfully, learning to recognize the signature curves so that when they choose a wave, it isn't a wave yet. It's a swell with all the signs of curling and creating that gorgeous arc of thrill coursing over the shore. Acting in the right moment means the difference between cruising through the tunnel and being swept under by the crest. The stakes can be high, just like in our life. But the thrill remains. When we see the corduroy of swells turning quickly into waves heading our way, we turn our board toward land, and all we need do is enjoy the ride.
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